Should I clean inherited coins before selling them?

No — never clean coins. Cleaning permanently damages collectible surfaces and can reduce a coin's value by 90% or more. Dark toning is original and often adds value. Sell or appraise coins exactly as found.

How do I know if inherited coins are silver?

For US coins, the date is the fastest test: dimes, quarters and half dollars from 1964 or earlier are 90% silver; half dollars 1965–1970 are 40% silver; nickels 1942–1945 with a large mint mark above the dome are 35% silver; dollar coins 1935 and earlier are 90% silver.

Are inherited coins worth more than their silver value?

Usually most of a mixed accumulation is worth melt value, but a small number of dates and mint marks can be worth many times more. Check every coin's date and mint mark against a key-date list before selling anything in bulk.

When should I pay for a professional coin appraisal?

When you find potential key dates, gold coins, coins in exceptional condition, or complete collector-built sets — or when the collection is large enough that estate/tax documentation matters. For common circulated silver, a melt calculation is normally sufficient.

I inherited a box of coins — what now? A calm step-by-step guide

First: there is no urgency. Coins have waited decades; they will wait three more weekends. Work the steps in order and you will not make the two expensive mistakes almost everyone makes.

Step 0 — Do not clean anything. Ever.

The single costliest mistake in inherited collections: someone "polishes up" the coins before selling. Cleaning permanently destroys collector value — often 90% of it — and professionals detect it instantly. Dark toning is original skin, not dirt, and frequently adds value. Handle coins by their edges, over a towel, and change nothing about their condition.

Step 1 — Stabilize and inventory

Get everything into one place. Keep any holders, envelopes, flips or albums with their coins — a previous owner's organization is information (an album says "collector"; a coffee can says "accumulator"). Keep any handwritten notes; "bought 1962, $3" is provenance. Photograph the collection roughly, both for records and in case questions arise later.

Step 2 — The three-pile sort

Sort by what the coin is, not what you guess it's worth:

Pile A — Obvious bullion: bars, rounds, Eagles, Maples, Krugerrands. Valued by weight and live spot; nothing subtle here.
Pile B — Old US circulating coins: anything pre-1971, plus all half dollars through 1970 and nickels 1942–45. This pile is silver and possible collector value — the interesting one.
Pile C — Modern face value: post-1964 dimes/quarters, post-1970 halves, memorial cents, ordinary nickels. Almost always just money. (Two quiet exceptions worth a scan: pre-1982 cents are 95% copper, and proof/mint-set coins stay in their government packaging.)

Step 3 — Identify the silver by date

The date test for US coins, complete:

Dimes, quarters, halves ≤ 1964: 90% silver.
Half dollars 1965–1970: 40% silver (they look identical to clad — check the date).
Nickels 1942–1945 with a large mint mark above Monticello's dome: 35% silver "war nickels".
Dollar coins ≤ 1935 (Morgan and Peace): 90% silver, valued per coin.
Any US gold coin: set aside; every one deserves individual attention.

Now put the ordinary-date 90% coins through the junk silver calculator — face value in, live melt value out. That number is your floor: what the pile is worth as metal, before any collector value.

Step 4 — Check dates before selling anything in bulk

Inside every accumulation, a handful of date/mint-mark combinations are worth far more than melt. Scan Pile B against key-date lists — every OunceDesk coin guide has one. The famous traps people sell for melt: 1916-D Mercury dimes, 1932-D and -S quarters, Carson City ("CC") dollars, 1893-S Morgans, 1909-S VDB cents, 1950-D nickels. Mint marks are small — use your phone camera zoomed in. This step takes an evening and is the highest-paid hour of the whole process.

Step 5 — Melt value vs collector value

Every silver coin has a melt value (metal × spot — computed live on our melt tables). A few also have collector value, which depends on date, mint and condition. The rule for a seller: anything without a special date/mint sells at a discount to melt in bulk; anything on a key list gets individually evaluated first. Don't let a buyer weigh the whole box — that's how 1893-S dollars get bought at silver price.

Step 6 — When professional appraisal makes sense

Pay for expertise when you find: gold coins; potential key dates; uncirculated-looking older coins; complete albums a collector built; or anything you can't identify. Expect to pay an hourly fee — and prefer an appraiser who is not also offering to buy the collection, or at least get a second bid. For estate or tax purposes, a written appraisal has value beyond the sale itself. Grading services (PCGS/NGC) come later, and only for coins whose value clearly justifies the ~$30–75 per-coin cost.

Step 7 — Selling, sanely

Bullion and generic 90%: get quotes as a multiple of face or percent of melt from 2–3 dealers. 95–99% of melt is a normal dealer bid for bags.
Better single coins: established coin dealers or major auction houses; certified coins travel best.
Never hotel-ballroom "we buy gold" events, and never in a hurry.
There's no obligation to sell at all — silver in hand is a position, and some heirs simply become stackers. If that's you, Journey 1 is next.

Quick answers

Should I clean them first? No — never. How do I know what's silver? The date test in Step 3. Is it worth more than melt? Mostly no, occasionally very much yes — which is why Step 4 exists. Do I need an appraiser? Only for the coins Step 6 describes.